We drive eastwards from Reykjavik, crossing the high moorland of Hellisheiði and passing south of the steaming volcano, Hengill. We also pass the greenhouses of Hveragerði village. East of Þjórsá river, we head inland and cross to the north of Mount Hekla, one of Iceland's most infamous volcanoes, which last erupted as recently as February 2000. We now enter the black Dómadalur (Valley of Doom), which is a gateway to Fjallabak Nature Reserve. The Nature Reserve is a huge mountainous wilderness that is constantly built up by ongoing volcanic activity and eroded by glaciers, rivers and wind.
Reaching Landmannalaugar we have lunch, after which we start out by crossing the 500-year-old Laugahraun lava flow that is still giving heat to Landmannalaugar hot springs. Climbing steadily past numerous sulphur vents, we top a succession of rolling rhyolite hills before descending to the steaming hot springs of Stórihver. As we get higher, the better we can understand the forces of nature. Up on the plateau, steam rises in all directions from unseen vents and we reach our accommodation at Hrafntinnusker mountain hut in the late afternoon.
Distance:12km (7.5miles) Active walking time: 4-5 hours Ascent: 470m